French Polynesia: LGBTQ+ inclusivity beyond expectationsBy The Editor of GayTies
Before visiting French Polynesia, I had no idea what to expect regarding LGBTQ+ inclusivity. Of course, I did the Is it safe for gays to visit? Google search — because I’ve heard one too many horror stories about idyllic tropical islands being less than idyllic for LGBTQ+ travelers.
While some places make their stance clear with rainbow flags and stickers on storefronts, French Polynesia is different — not because LGBTQ+ people aren’t welcome, but because openness is ingrained in the culture. There’s no need to advertise what’s already understood: French Polynesia is for everyone.
Also known as the Islands of Tahiti, French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands in the South Pacific spread across an area the size of Europe. Despite its remote location, it’s surprisingly accessible, with direct flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Paris, Auckland, and Tokyo. The largest island, Tahiti, is home to the capital, Papeete, where most journeys begin.
When I arrived, I noticed something distinct — the māhū (a traditional third gender in Polynesian culture) and rae-rae (a more modern term often referring to trans women) are respected members of society.
I saw this firsthand at Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts (letahiti.com), where māhū staff were working throughout the hotel, and a Marquesan dance show featured māhū performers exuding confidence and grace. Their presence wasn’t tokenistic — it was simply part of life here.
At first, I wondered why businesses, particularly the LGBTQ-owned ones, didn’t display Pride flags, but locals made it clear: It’s unnecessary. French Polynesia legalized same-sex marriage in 2013, bans discrimination based on sexual orientation, and takes hate crimes against LGBTQ+ people very seriously. One local put it simply: “Everyone is welcome here. That’s just how it is.”
That said, if you’re expecting a big queer nightlife scene, you won’t find it here. While the LGBTQ-owned Malabar in Papeete draws a mixed, welcoming crowd, Tahiti isn’t a party island – it’s a place to connect with nature, culture, and people.
Tahiti is vibrant — markets filled with fragrant monoi oils, tattoo artists continuing the ancient Polynesian tradition of tatau (which, by the way, is where the word “tattoo” originates), and waterfalls cascading through lush landscapes.
Rangiroa felt like stepping into an entirely different world, where the lagoon was so impossibly clear and blue it looked photoshopped in real life. Staying at Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa (hotelkiaora.com) only added to the dreamlike experience — beachfront bungalows, an infinity pool overlooking the water, and a swim-up bar that made it far too easy to justify “just one more” cocktail at sunset.
But it was Tahaʻa that stole my heart. Known as the “Vanilla Island,” it’s small, quiet, and intoxicatingly fragrant — literally, as the scent of vanilla drifts through the air from the many nearby plantations. I stayed in an overwater bungalow at Le Tahaʻa by Pearl Resorts (letahaa.com) — a fitting choice since French Polynesia is the birthplace of the overwater bungalow. Here, my days consisted of snorkeling in coral gardens, paddleboarding at sunrise, and sipping fresh coconut water on my deck.
While in Tahaʻa, I met a gay couple celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary. They had honeymooned in Bora Bora but decided to explore new islands this time — a perfect reminder that French Polynesia always has something new to offer, no matter how many times you visit.
As we talked over cocktails, they shared how changing gender here is legal, same-sex couples can adopt, and serving in the military as an LGBTQ+ person isn’t an issue. Unlike other places where progress feels like a battle, Tahiti’s laws quietly reflect a reality that has existed here for quite some time – being yourself isn’t just tolerated; it’s respected.
If you’re looking for a queer party scene, this isn’t it. But if you’re seeking a place where you can be yourself without question, where identity isn’t debated but simply understood, French Polynesia offers something deeper than acceptance — it offers belonging. And that’s something I’ll take with me long after my tan fades.(4/9)
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